![]() I know i can get 24 volt charging out of a 12 volt alternator without internal modifications, and control it with a 3 step programmable controller Hopefully by next month i will have my trigenerator functioning enough to do the testing needed to determine what exactly needs to be doneįor the 110-555 and the other leece neville alternators in these applications and at various charging voltages. the faster it turns the cooler it will run anyway. I would not be afraid of spinning the alternator faster, most are rated for 8k rpm continuous anyway. I am sure they don't get much call for alternate applications, and the guy you spoke to may not be aware of what the unit is capable of underĬonditions other than what it was designed for. The tech guys at leece neville will tell you otherwise, because they are trying to keep the cut in speed within spec's for automotive useĪn alternator that doesn't kick in and start charging until it hits 2400rpm and then drops out at idle is worthless on a truckĪnd afterall that is what the alternators are designed for. Thing is, if you gear it properly so that it is spinning upwards of 3000-4000 rpm the voltage to the rotor will be sufficiently low so that the 12volt rotorĬan handle it, most especially if you program the regulator to reduced output. The 12volt units, i am not sure of the 24 volt units, but a call to balmar could clarify this point The balmar is rated at around 10amps iirc to the rotor, but balmar told me that you can replace the fuse and go to 15amps without damage on I know the alternator is capable of far more than 24 volts, 48 is not outside the realm of possibility eitherĪbove that you might need higher peak inverse voltage rated rectifiers If it is rated at 160amps at 12volt nominal, then getting 24 volt nominal at 160amps is going to take theoretically twice the input hp to spin The limiting factor is the amount of power it takes to turn it ![]() The cutin for a 110-555 is about 1200rpm iirc, so it should cut in at 24 volt nominal at 2400rpm I am unsure at this time whether or not the 24 volt balmar can control it, but possibly it can if it is programmed appropriately. To charge at 24 nominal it will have to spin faster than the cut in of the original setupĪnd you will need to control it with a purpose built regulator Hardly anything left, only 2-3 mm of the brush protruding from the holder.The alternator can be made to charge at whatever voltage you want it to, but If you look closely you can see one of the old brushes in the holder still. You learn so next time you know what's going on and also passing helpful info to others.ītw here's a picture comparing the old work brush to a new one. Sometimes it's unfortunate that something has to break before you do your research about what's going on. I'm always learning something new about Land Cruisers. Thanks for the help especially rchalmers. The alternator is now putting out roughly 29 volts no more filter and brake warning lights!! Upon starting the engine the voltmeter indicated just battery voltage then after a few seconds everything went back to normal. I put everything back together and re-installed the alternator on the engine. Since the alternator was already removed from the engine over the weekend it just took about 5 minutes with the soldering iron to get the new brushes on to the holder. I replaced the brushes after coming home from work today. And why, when everything works normal, I have to rev the engine slightly for the charging system to functon properly? Strangely half way to work on the highway (engine doing about 2100rpm) the lights went out and the voltage went up to the normal charging voltage of about 28 volts.ĭoes anyone have an idea what can be the problem? Could it be a bad alternator? But it does seem to want to charge (sort of.)? Or is there a circuit of some sort that keeps the voltage low like when I first start the engine. This morning I was thinking should I drive to work thinking maybe my batteries will get drained before I get to where I want to go. Even revving the engine won't extinguish the lights like it would normally. The FILTER light is on and also the battery warning light. ![]() Recently when I start my engine the voltmeter will read just above battery voltage, say 24 volts or so. ![]() If I rev the engine to about 1200 rpm the FILTER light will go out and the voltmeter will go to it's normal indication of around 28 volts. Normally when I start the engine the voltmeter will indicate somewhere in the neighbourhood of 24-25 volts and the FILTER light will remain on. I'll try to describe what happens.īefore I start I have to mention that I have a 24 volt electrical system in my Cruiser. My HJ60 recently developed a charging problem. ![]()
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